One of the best Italian restaurants in Melbourne has to be The Italian Waiters. Located down Meyers Place (Off Bourke St), this institution has been serving lovingly prepared food (such as Tortellini Bologna that i've been eating for approx 15 years) for decades. This is the sort of place where 'modern infused Australian cuisine' doesn't exist. It's old fashioned, it's straight from your mum's kitchen. Go forth and eat.